Writing from Greece, I can cheat a little as this year’s citrus crop is impressive. So winter looks distinctly summery. But a little goes a long way, just adding an orange to a beetroot salad or a little tangy kumquat chutney to accompany pork or chicken.

Salads don’t need to be boring, spicy potatoes, ginger and lemon cabbage, inventive root vegetables, and delicious curries. Winter lends itself to spices … warming foods, and adding a little punch to the blander produce.

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