Stifatho, Traditional Greek Stew

Beef stifado served in a pale blue bowl

Stifatho, Traditional Greek Stew: Comforting, warming, super easy and delicious. Greek Stifatho or Stifado is a go-to winter dish found in kitchens throughout Greece. The Venetians brought it across the sea in the 13th Century, along with other famous traditional dishes such as the Cretan Gamopilafo or Corfiot Pastitsada.

Stifado with Beef, Wild Boar, Rabbit or Octopus

Make stifado with rabbit, veal, or octopus. Here, I have photographed two versions: beef and wild boar. Local wild boar is plentiful and has the advantage of travelling metres rather than kilometres to my kitchen door. Stifado can also wear a chicken or a vegetable hat, albeit with shorter cooking times. I will post recipes later this month. Lamb, however, simmered with similar spices is Kleftiko, a fabulous Greek stew with a significant history. Again, it is on the to-do list.

Greek Stifado and Onions

Onions are vital in stifado for flavour and naturally help thicken the sauce. Ideally, use ‘kokkari’ onions, shallots, or pearl onions. If not, quartered large sweet onions work well. The onions should be nearly or equal to the weight of the meat. Don’t be put off by the arduous task of peeling a kilo of shallots. Trim the root, blanch for a couple of minutes, and leave to cool. You will then find the onion easily pops out of its skin.

Over the centuries, stifado has evolved with each family and every Taverna, cooking their special recipe. It has a rich, slightly sweet tomato sauce infused with red wine, allspice, cloves, bay leaf, cinnamon, garlic and juniper berries. Sometimes rosemary is added, sometimes oregano. The cloves are studded into an orange, and occasionally, probably as you get closer to the Turkish border, a pinch of cumin finds its way into the sauce.

Cook Slowly and Gently

Like a good boeuf Bourguignon or any stew, stifado needs time. Once the meat and onions have been browned and sealed, they should be cooked over low heat and stirred only occasionally. Ideally, cook the day before; Stifatho is always better the next day! Don’t be tempted to boil the meat in a lot of liquid to speed the process; add enough wine and water to cover the meat and add a little more when necessary. Slow, slow.

Traditionally, with ‘hilopittes’ (egg pasta) or the tiny ‘orzo’ (rice-shaped) pasta. It is equally delicious with lemon-roasted potatoes, rice, creamy mashed potato, and something like a maroulosalata (simple Greek green salad). And, last but not least, a slice of feta!

There is no rule book for stifado apart from the aromatic and onion base, so feel free to add carrots, celeriac, or even potatoes to stretch the meat and adjust the spices to your taste for a perfect Traditional Greek Stew.

Check out our Soups and Stews section or Octopus Stifatho.

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